Caan’s 100% Guarantee

All trees, shrubs, and evergreens purchased at Caan Floral and Greenhouses are guaranteed to grow.

Nursery Guarantee: All nursery stock (trees, shrubs, evergreens) purchased from Caan’s has a one-year hassle-free 100% guarantee. For one year from the purchase date Caan’s will replace any guaranteed plant that dies with a replacement up to the value originally paid. The original register receipt and the dead plant must be brought in for a replacement to be honored. Replacement plants are not guaranteed. Planting and delivery fees will apply on replacement stock unless previously paid for with the original purchase. Plants that are tagged for hardiness zone 6 or higher are notguaranteed. Any Nursery stock purchased at 40% off or greater is not guaranteed. There will be no cash refunds on dead nursery stock.

Roses/Perennials Guarantee: Roses and perennials are guaranteed until November 1st of the year purchased. Replacements will be offered when the dead plant is returned with the original register receipt. Replacement plants are not guaranteed. Plants that are tagged for hardiness zone 6 or higher are not guaranteed. Any roses or perennials purchased at 40% off or greater is not guaranteed. There will be no cash refunds on dead plant material.

Nursery stock, as every other living thing, requires proper care. The responsibility is assumed by the purchaser and involves proper planting, watering, cultivating, fertilizing, insect, and disease control. This guarantee shall be void if the plant is damaged by man, animal, or act of God. We invite any questions you may have on maintaining your plants in top condition.

Planting And Care Instructions For Trees And Shrubs


DEPTH: The depth of the planting hole should be the same size as the root ball, from the top of the root ball to the bottom of the root ball. Digging the hole deeper will allow the plant to settle and be too deep which can lead to diseases and decline. It is better to plant slightly high and raise dirt around the root ball rather than planting too deep.

WIDTH: Measure the width of the root ball and multiply that number by two to determine how wide to dig your hole. Wider is better. SOIL: If the soil is poor in nutrients, compacted or contains a lot of clay or sand, add organic matter such as peat, compost, or pine bark. DON’T add sand to clay. Sand + clay = cement! Using Myke mycorrhizae growth enhancer is also beneficial to establishing a healthy root system. Many plants, such as rhododendron, azalea, and blueberry; like acidic soils that are very well-drained. Use pine bark and peat to improve drainage of clay soils for these plants. It will also help acidify the soil as it breaks down.

PLANTING: Remove plastic containers before placing the plant in the hole. If the root ball is in burlap and a wire basket, place the root ball in the hole. If possible, cut the wire basket completely off. If removing the wire basket isn’t possible, it can be bent outward or folded underneath your plant. Cut away as much of the burlap and string as possible before filling in the hole. Very important! Most plants have fibrous roots and can become pot-bound (that is, the roots become matted around the edges of the pot they’re grown in). Make six ¼” deep slices vertically from top to bottom around the perimeter of the root ball and an “X” on the bottom. This treatment may not be sufficient for Rhododendrons and Azaleas that are very pot bound. You can ‘butterfly’ or quarter the root ball and spread the roots as near to horizontal as possible. Build a mound in the center of the hole and spread the roots over it. Fill the hole with amended soil about half way and water to settle the soil. Fill the rest of the way and water again to settle the soil. Don’t pack the soil with your hands, feet, or tools; this creates a compacted soil that roots can’t grow into very well.

WATERING: Newly planted trees and shrubs need to be watered every third day for the first two weeks. Set the end of a hose at the base of your plant. Let the water slowly trickle out for 15 – 20 minutes. If many plants are involved, it may be more practical to use a sprinkler. Set a coffee can alongside the plant and water until there is two inches of water in the bottom of the can. The first three years are the most critical in determining the survival of your new tree or shrub. Water the root ball with one to two inches of water per week for the first three years. Too much water can cause as much damage as too little water. Water beginning in spring after the ground thaws. Continue until the ground freezes in fall. Watering includes rainfall. If we receive two inches of rain in a week, you will not need to water that week.

FERTILIZING: Fertilize with slow release fertilizers such as Plant-Tone or Tree-Tone. Use Holly-Tone for evergreens, azaleas, hollies, blueberries, Rhododendrons and other acid-loving plants. Continue annual fertilization in the spring just as the new growthbegins.

MULCHING: Apply between two and four inches of mulch after planting. This will help retain moisture in the soil, inhibit weed growth, moderate soil temperatures, and protects trees from injury caused by lawnmowers and string trimmers. Keep mulch at least 3 inches away from tree trunks and extend about 6 inches past the drip line.